A Passion For Pastries

Flour, cinnamon, eggs, sugar, tradition and modernisation are some of the ingredients used to produce delicious Portuguese pastries. In every café you enter in Lisbon, you will probably find a mouth-watering selection of Bola de Berlim, Pastel de Nata and other sweet treats. During Christmas time, the Bolo Rei is present in every window display. If you are not already a fan, Lisbon will definitely ignite your passion for pastries.

A taste of Portuguese Custard tarts

The Pastéis de Nata (custard tart) can be found in almost every café or pastry store in the country; the secret, however, is where to find the best one. The first place to produce a Pastel de Nata was the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém (Belém Tart Factory) in 1837, located next to the impressive Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, in the Belém area, where there was a sugar refinery. As a consequence of the Liberal Revolution in 1820, all convents in Portugal were closed down in 1834. Trying to maintain a living, a clergyman from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos started selling these delicious custard tarts in the refinery, which rapidly became known as Pastéis de Belém. The production of these custard tarts continued in a nearby shop, designated as the “Pastéis de Belém Factory”, still open today. Throughout the country, these custard tarts are known as Pastéis de Nata.



Antiga Confeitaria de Belém

The long queue during weekends is explained by the over 10,000 Pastéis de Nata being made every day by this epic “factory”. Today this is also a place where you can enjoy a coffee in the tea rooms with your Pastel de Nata, served warm with a dash of cinnamon and icing sugar. The secret recipe of these tarts has been kept by the cooks of this establishment for over 150 years. Definitely a place you cannot miss in Lisbon if you are treating yourself to the best flavours this city has to offer.

Café A Brasileira

It is essential to mention A Brasileira when one is talking about Lisbon, pastries and cafés. The epic Portuguese writer, Fernando Pessoa, used to gather here with other writers to discuss ideas or spend his afternoons. Its central location, the friendly service and the glass counter displaying the divine pastries - including the famous Pastel de Nata - beckons you into this famous Café.

Pastelaria Suiça

Since 1922, this pastry shop has been producing some of the best Portuguese pastries. Located in Rossio Square, right in the heart of the city, the Pastelaria Suiça has an attractive terrace, where you can treat yourself to a tasty coffee and a wide variety of different pastries. Nowadays a huge attraction for tourists, the Pastelaria Suiça used to be a café where many Portuguese celebrities, artists and performers used to while away the afternoons. Maria Callas and Orson Welles are some of the famous patrons of this popular café.

Try out Bolo Rei

One of the most famous Portuguese cakes is the Bolo Rei (or King Cake). The first  of these cakes ever to be sold in Portugal is said to have been in the Confeitaria Nacional in Lisbon in 1870. However this tradition dates back to the Roman times.

During the Roman feasts, the King of the feast had to be chosen. A fava bean used to be placed within a cake and whoever got the piece containing the fava bean would be elected King. There is also a legend that tells the story of the Three Kings of the Orient disputing who would be the first to give baby Jesus his gift. As they could not reach an agreement, a local baker baked a cake and hid a fava bean inside. Later, the Christians would have the tradition of eating twelve Bolo Rei’s during the days between Christmas and the Epiphany. This tradition was adapted by Louis XIV in the French Court to celebrate New Year’s day and the 6th of January. The Bolo Rei was brought to Portugal by the son of the owner of the Confeitaria Nacional, although the recipes are completely different to one another. After the French Revolution, the Bolo Rei was abolished, due to monarchical connotation attached to it. Many bakeries, however, were economically dependent on the sales of this cake, so they changed its name to Gâteau des Sans-cullotes (Sans-cullotes Cake). The same would later happen in Portugal after the establishment of the Republic in 1910. Any symbols of the old monarchy were detested at the time, particularly one with a form of a crown.

the EU put a stop to the practice of including a gift in the Bolo Rei, some bakeries would put in small surprise as a reminder of the old practices. Today, pastry shops and bakeries compete to produce the best Bolo Rei. During Christmas time, every bakery displays their Bolo Rei in their window showcase. There is no other way of to find out which makes the best one, without trying it yourself!


Confeitaria Nacional

Baltazar Roiz Castanheiro opened the doors of the Confeitaria Nacional in 1829 and, five generations later, it remains proudly in the hands of one of his grandchildren. The recipes and production of their pastries have been passed down from generation to generation. Confeitaria Nacional claims to have been the first to bring the Bolo Rei to Portugal, holding the secret recipe for all these years. You should also try the almond cake, the delectable egg cake or the assortment of traditional biscuits and pastries from the Confeitaria Nacional.

Pastelaria Garrett

Kissed by the maritime breeze in Estoril, this bakery is the most frequented pastry store by locals. It was remodelled in 1999, maintaining its antique charm and improving the quality of its service and food. Apart from the delicious meals it serves, the friendly atmosphere and the modern décor, Garrett is famous for its pastries. From the strawberry tartlets and cheesecake, to the home baked bread, you are bound to leave Garrett desiring more. They claim to be one of the best houses to produce Bolo Rei, and if you want a Bolo Rei for Christmas, you should order it in advance! If you have rented a car and are enjoying a beautiful coastal drive through Estoril (just 20km from Lisbon), it’s definitely worth your while to stop at Pastelaria Garrett.

Café “A Mexicana”

“A Mexicana” opened its doors in 1946 and continues to be run by the founding family. Specialities include the Bolo Rei and the chocolate eggs it produces for Easter. Café “A Mexicana” is also famous for its decorative interiors. In 1962 it was remodelled and a bold ceramic panel was made by artist Querubim Lapa that still exists today. With an outdoor terrace where you can enjoy a coffee or hot chocolate, frequent painting exhibitions inside and tasty pastries for you to try, this Café is a must-do in Lisbon.

The Bolo Rei and Pastel de Nata are only a few of the Portuguese pastries that are worth trying. If you have a real passion for pastries, there are a few other pastelarias that you cannot miss out on whilst you are visiting Lisbon.


Pastelaria Versailles

For nearly over a decade, Versailles has been one of the iconic cafés of the capital. It resisted the wave of the “fast-food” concept, maintaining its traditional style and production of freshly baked cakes and pastries. Its decoration is inspired by the Art Nouveau of the 1920s, with great mirrors, long wooden counters, ceilings with fantastic worked stucco and impressive chandeliers. The façade of the building is also memorable and has remained intact since its construction, standing out among the modern construction that is predominant in the area.

Pastelaria O Careca

This pastry shop has gained its reputation for its luscious palmier biscuits and the butter croissants that melt in your mouth. It’s worth a visit on any day, but a sunny one will allow you to sit outside on the terrace with a small and pleasant garden. Since 1954, Pastelaria O Careca has been producing some of the most delicious home-baked pastries in Lisbon.

Pastelaria Bénard

Boasting classic décor and a mouth-watering selection of home-made baked goods and pastries, Bénard is worth a visit. Situated next to the Café A Brasileira, right in the heart of Chiado, it has a pleasant outdoor terrace where you can enjoy people-watching in the heart of the city centre.

Café Nicola

Although not strictly a pastry shop, Café Nicola is a must-visit on the Lisbon Café scene. It was opened by an Italian called Nicola Breteiro in 1787 and was one of the most frequented cafés of the 19th Century, a place where many debates, exchanges of opinion and the change of ideas occurred. One of the most famous clients was Manuel Maria Barbosa du Bocage, a well known Portuguese writer. It is one of the most popular cafes in the literary scene in Lisbon, having been a book store from 1837 to 1929. The present owners, the Albuquerque family, have maintained the Art Nouveau decoration, and this café continues to be used for book releases and literary gatherings.

Pastelaria Caneças

Situated in Cais do Sodré, this pastry shop is just a few metres away from the Tagus river. With its welcoming traditional touch, the Pastelaria Caneças produces some of the most tasty cakes and pastries in town. With nearly a century of existence, it is recognised for the artisanal breads that it exhibits in the window display.

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